Due to their spikey leaves, I find they make a great contrast to round bushes and even colored plants like Russian Sage.

Munawar's Japanese Iris - Front Lawn - Photo taken in Sept 2011

Munawar's Japanese Iris - Sept 2011 - Rock View

Munawar's Japanese Iris - Side View - Sept 2011

Here’s the full Album

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After spending time working on my 2 Japanese Maple trees, and also reading up on pruning Japanese Maple Trees, I realized that there was a glut of serious entries on the subject of pruning these beauties.  Typical blog or articles on the topic typically say, “Let the Japanese maple just grow, and weed out the excessive growth”.  That really does not suffice on pruning this beauty, Unless you really want a simple oval shaped tree.

The Japanese Maple has some unique characteristics, which can make the tree really stand out as a specimen plant, if pruned properly.  My way of thinking was, where better to learn about pruning the Japanese Maple trees, then the Japanese?

With that in mind, I read up on Japanese Niwaki principles, specific to the Maple.  These are my pruning rules for the Acer palmatum, heavily influenced by the book: “Niwaki: Pruning, Training and Shaping Trees the Japanese Way” by Jake Hobson.  But the rules have been adjusted for better understanding, and Western Gardening practices.  But also, updated based on my own limited knowledge of pruning my own trees.

Pruning Rules

Glossary of Pruning Terms

1. Horizontal Branch – A branch growing horizontally, or even slightly upwards (to 45 degree).
2. Vertical Branch – A branch growing 45-90 degrees upwards.
3. Epicorm Growth – This is growth stemming from the center of the tree.  It is also called a branching sucker.  These are branches that are attached to the central root system.  They grow very fast, and move straight up.  If left alone, they can take over the tree, but they are unslightly, and off times, discolored.

General Structural Pruning Rules:

1. Prune for a reason.  Don’t cut any branch, unless there is a reason!
2. Prune for beauty / aesthetics – Make the tree fall into the shape you desire.
   1. Don’t allow the tree to decide what shape it will take, you can control the end result, so use that power for a healthier tree.
   2. It is always to the benefit of everyone, to allow the tree to take the shape it prefers.  So prune with that in mind, but do not allow this rule to stop you from cutting where you need to.
   3. There is a difference between pruning for Health (Arborist), and pruning for beauty.  Sometimes both methods have the same goal in mind.
3. Prune for size: Pruning can be used to control tree size.  A well pruned tree, over the years, can slow growth to 1/2 of original growth speed.Very useful in small gardens.
4. Prune for health: Moderate pruning, utilizing basic pruning principles, will always help the tree.

Pruning the Japanese Maple

Trunk Pruning

1. Prune out epicorm growth – They will take over the plant, and can be unsightly.  These branches can be identified by their discoloration, fast growth, and straight vertical growth.
2. Prune out all vertical growth
   1. Identify your trunks (ie – which vertical branches / trunks you wish to use as the foundational trunks for your tree).  For a Japanese Maple 4-5 is ussually enough for a nice branching tree.
   2. Remove all other vertical branches / trunks.
   3. If you don’t wish to prune a vertical branch for various reasons, then understand that this branch will eventually become a major tree trunk.

Primary Branch Training

The focus here is pruning branches that have grown off the main trunk and secondary trunks.  Don’t worry yet about what is happening on the branches.  We’re only looking at the trunk still.

1. The Japanese Maple has a branching habit, but if you want more branches, then “Top” the tree at a 2 bud node (See diagram below).
   1. The tree will then grow a 2 branch head
2. Prune symmetrical branches – The Japanese Maple Tree has a symmetrical branching structure, where 2 buds will grow, directly opposite of each other.
   1. To create a more natural look, prune out one branch/bud from a pair of symmetrical branches.
      1. If you prune out a left branch, then on the next Symmetrical branch, prune out the right branch.  This allows growth to be even on both sides of the trunk.
3. Prune vertical branches – Remove all vertical branches stemming from the trunk.
   1. The Japanese Maple Tree has a habit of producing a horizontal branch, then a vertical branch next.  Keep this in mind when hunting for vertical growth.
      1. Buds all look like they are vertical growth.  So don’t touch buds until after they have grown a little and exposed their growth tendency.
   2. High up on the tree, there will be no Horizontal branches.  This is a misnomer, as 45 degree angled branches, will eventually bend over (with leaf weight) into a horizontal branch.  So the rule of thumb is, lower on the tree, Horizontal branches are growing horizontally.  Higher on the tree, Horizontal branches are growing about 45 degrees upwards.
   3. There may be places, where you can’t remove vertical branches (Or don’t want to).  In those cases, prune the vertical branch down to the lowest acceptable horizontal branch or bud.  The point here is, you are stopping vertical growth, and leaving a horizontal branch, ensuring future growth is moving horizontal only.
   4. When done properly, you will end up with a Japanese Maple Tree that has strong vertical lines in the trunck and secondary trunks, and all branches wil be moving horizontally.  There will be no or few crossed branches stemming from the cross meeting of a vertical branch and the branch above it.  This promotes health via: More air and light inside the tree structure.

Individual Branch Training

Now, Moving from the trunks, work on each branch individually.  Start from the bottom of the tree, and work on each branch individually as you move up.

1. On each branch, remove any vertical leaf or branch.
2. Remove opposing symmetrical branches.  Ensure that as you do this, the branch has even growth.  If you have 5 branches pointing left, you try for 5 pointing to the right (or at least 3-4 pointing to the right).
   1. The only place this is not the case, is symmetrical up/down branches.  In this case, you remove all vertical (upward branches), and leave the down facing branches.
3. Now step back and look at each individual main branch from several feet away.  Look straight on at the branches, then look at the same branch from the side.
   1. Straight on, the branch should be cascading gently downward.  There should not be any vertical protrusions breaking the wave.
      1. If there are, it means you missed vertical growth, and you should prune this vertical growth out.
   2. Same applies from the side-view.  There should be no breaks in the smooth cascade.
   3. A good simile for the branch, is your hand resting on a broom.  All fingers are loosely pointing out horizontally, and cascade downwards near the finger tips.  There are no fingers pointing up or at an angle.  Your Japanese Maple Tree branches should be the same.

End Result

When trained in this way, you will end up with a unique Japanese Maple Tree, which does not look like a big round Maple Tree when mature.  It will be a tree with character: Selective branches, that wind gracefully downward.  There will be portions of trunk exposed due to missing branches, further enhancing it’s beauty.

Compare this to an unpruned Japanese Maple Tree (Acer Palamtum) or a minimally pruned Japanese Maple Tree   At full maturity, it is large, circular, with criss crossed branches.  It’s big and unwieldy, great for bird nests, but not a true specimen tree in your Garden.

Introduction

Here’s a picture of my new ‘Sunsation’ Japanese Barberry Shrub.  My front lawn is very bare, and I recently started up my second mini-project to put something together up there.  The original design called for a spherical boxwood form to contrast with my Dragon-Eye Red Pine.  But when I was at the nursery, (Lakeside Gallery in Brampton), I couldn’t resist this multi-color, tight shaped shrub.  As I was looking for something that contrasted with the Red Pine, I felt that this was the best plant to go forward with.  So, It’s in, let’s see how it does.  Specifications below.

Munawar's Sunsation Japanese Barberry (Berberis thunbergii) 3

Munawar's Sunsation Japanese Barberry (Berberis thunbergii)

Munawar's Sunsation Japanese Barberry (Berberis thunbergii)

Specifications

Height: 3 feet

Spread: 4 feet

Sunlight: Full or Half Shade

Hardiness Zone: 4a

Description:

An incredible golden-leaved variety with a compact and dense growth habit, makes a great low hedge; a brilliant color contrast for the garden or foundation planting

Ornamental Attributes:

Sunsation Japanese Barberry has attractive gold foliage which emerges light green in spring. The small oval leaves are ornamentally significant and turn an outstanding gold in the fall. It features tiny clusters of yellow flowers hanging below the branches in mid spring. The fruits are showy scarlet drupes carried in abundance from early to late fall.

Sunsation Japanese Barberry

Landscape Attributes:

Sunsation Japanese Barberry is a dense multi-stemmed deciduous shrub with a more or less rounded form. Its relatively fine texture sets it apart from other landscape plants with less refined foliage.

This shrub will require occasional maintenance and upkeep, and can be pruned at anytime. Deer don’t particularly care for this plant and will usually leave it alone in favor of tastier treats. Gardeners should be aware of the following characteristic(s) that may warrant special consideration;

• Spiny

Sunsation Japanese Barberry is recommended for the following landscape applications;

• General Garden Use
• Mass Planting
• Groundcover
• Hedges/Screening

Plant Characteristics:

Sunsation Japanese Barberry will grow up to 3 x 4 feet. It tends to fill out right to the ground and therefore doesn’t necessarily require facer plants in front. It grows at a medium rate, and under ideal conditions can be expected to live for approximately 20 years.

This shrub does best in full sun to partial shade. It is very adaptable to both dry and moist growing conditions, but will not tolerate any standing water. It is not particular as to soil type or pH, and is able to handle environmental salt. It is highly tolerant of urban pollution and will even thrive in inner city environments.

Warnings: Apparently, the Sunsation is invasive, and must be pruned before seeding (Early Summer).  I haven’t seen this in action yet, so I’m not sure if it’s relevant in Ontario (Zone 5).

References:

1. http://www.monrovia.com/plant-catalog/plants/334/sunsation-japanese-barberry.php
2. http://gardenaway.com/plants/berberis-thunbergii-monry-sunsation.html

Books

1. 

   Designer Plant Combinations: 105 Stunning Gardens Using Six Plants or Fewer

   Designer Plant Combinations: 105 Stunning Gardens Using Six Plants or Fewer: Extensively shows the Japanese Barberry in different combinations, and how to make it work.  Extra – the real benefit of this book is that it is useful in other areas of your garden.

2. 

   Trees, Shrubs & Hedges for Home Landscaping: Secrets for Selection and Care

   Trees, Shrubs & Hedges for Home Landscaping: Secrets for Selection and Care : Basically a handful of pages on the Barberry.  Surprisingly there isn’t much reference material against the Barberry

Photos

Additional Links and Items

Dragon-Eye Japanese Red Pine

Dragon-Eye Japanese Red Pine - It's not a stand alone specimen tree ala "Bloodgood" or something similar, but like a good offensive lineman, this tree would make an awesome background to something nicer.

Dragon-Eye Japanese Red Pine (Pinus Densiflora "Oculus Draconis")

It’s not a stand alone specimen tree ala “Bloodgood” or something similar, but like a good offensive lineman, this tree would make an awesome background to something nicer.  I love the tree’s branching habit, and clumping branches.  Very exotic, yet hardy to Zone 4.

I have an area at the front of my lawn that is boring and lifeless.  I am thinking of planting this Red Pine with some boxwoods and Japanese Iris for a really nice contrasting front area.

Here are some specifications (From finegardening.com):

Botanical Name: Pinus densiflora ‘Oculus Draconis’ (PY-nus den-sih-FLOOR-ah)

Common Name: Dragon’s-eye Japanese red pine
Genus:  Pinus

Height:                      Over 30 ft.
Spread:                      15 ft. to 30 ft.
Growth Pace:        Slow Grower
Light:                         Full Sun to Part Shade
Moisture:                Adaptable
Characteristics: Interesting Bark; Showy Foliage
Foliage Color:      Evergreen
Uses:                           Hedge, Specimen Plant/ Focal Point
Seasonal Interest: Winter Interest, Spring Interest, Summer Interest, Fall Interest

This pine’s needles are marked with bands of yellow and green. The buttery yellow variegation on the 3- to 5-inch needles is present year-round, but intensifies as summer turns to fall and persists into winter. The scaly, fissured bark is lovely, ranging in color from gray to rich rusty orange. This is a graceful tree when mature, with an irregular branching habit and tilted trunk.

Noteworthy characteristics: Combines well with deep-green conifers or any other dark background. Use as a specimen tree, or for shelter or windbreaks. May look floppy and ungainly in its youth. Grows only about 6 inches a year.

Reference:

1. http://digitalflowerpictures.blogspot.com/2006/10/dragons-eye-japanese-red-pine-pinus.html

Books

1. 

   Garden Plants of Japan

   Garden Plants of Japan: Good reference material on Japanese plants.  Specifically, in our case, it speaks about the Red Pine.

Some simple details:

Plant Type: Clematis
Hardiness: USDA zones: 4-11. Heat zones: 9-1.
Mature size: 10-13 feet
Flowering period: July to August.
Flowering attributes: Large, single flower with dark purple sepals, violet bars down center and yellow-green anthers.
Light: Full sun to partial shade.
Soil: Fertile, humus rich, well-drained soil.
Pruning Methods: Pruning group 3
I love Clematis, and this is one of my favorites.

Endless Summer Hydrangea

These guys entered the market, taking on the “Bloom Once, and flop over like a dead bird” Hydrangea’s, and not surprisngly, they did well.  Let’s state it right here, these Hydrangea’s dont flop over like day old bread, and they bloom “endlessly” all summer!

Where to Buy “Endless Summer” Hydrangea’s?

Monrovia sells excellent plants.  They carry the Endless Summer / Summer Endless variety, even some of the newer varieties like “Blushing Bride”.  You can purchase them from here.

Michael Dirr's book on "Endless Summer" Hydrangea

Reference Material

The most amazing book on Hydrangea’s has to be Michael Dirr’s book on Hydrangeas.  First he travels the Earth researching various varieties.  Then he writes a 200 page book on the different qualities and aspects of Hydrangeas.  The photos are gorgeous, but the info in the book is even more amazing.  His love of Hydrangeas comes out on every page, and makes the reader feel the same.  Well worth the $20 odd dollars it costs.

.

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Initial Purchase

View at Picasa 25-Jul-2009 18:18, NIKON CORPORATION NIKON D60, 5.6, 55.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 200

I planted 3 Endless Summer Hydrangeas last summer.  Unfortunately, making the mistake of paying $5 at Walmart, to buy the half-dead, dehydrated sale plants.  They were browning and struggling.  I picked them up anyway, thinking I could save them.  Surprisingly, they responded to the water and care, and gave me some nice blooms.  You can see in the attached photo that they were giving blooms the first year…even when treated badly.

After the first Year

Winter came, (and mind you, we had the mildest winter on record ever in Ontario)  and come Spring, 1 Endless Summer was just dead, the other 2 put up very small buds, and wouldn’t grow.  Rumor had it that the constant thaw / freeze caused excessive ice formation in the soil, killing the plants.  You can see in the photos, the tiny buds that indicate some life.  But they were struggling

View at Picasa 29-May-2010 15:51, NIKON CORPORATION NIKON D60, 9.0, 26.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 200

After 10 weeks into summer, I gave up on plant#2 and pulled it out. This time, I went to an actual Nursery and paid good money for some nice varieties that were blooming and growing well.  The third plant lingered as a small bloom, but then finally, in July, it started to grow and bloom.  You can see it in the photos below, it is the pink plant.

View at Picasa 26-Jun-2010 13:49, NIKON CORPORATION NIKON D60, 8.0, 200.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 125

View at Picasa 26-Jun-2010 13:49, NIKON CORPORATION NIKON D60, 8.0, 200.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 110

View at Picasa 26-Jun-2010 13:47, NIKON CORPORATION NIKON D60, 8.0, 200.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 110

Conclusion

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View at Picasa 26-Jun-2010 13:48, NIKON CORPORATION NIKON D60, 8.0, 200.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 125

In the end, I’m happy with these plants. They grow well, bloom right away and look great. The Endless Summer variety are extra hardy and blooming, so I always look for these. And their awesome colors are, well, awesome.

The leaves were so unbelievably glossy, the flower petals seemed to shimmer “silverly”. Even a fellow gardening walking the aisle commented as she walked by. I caved in and purchased these beauties.

It’s called Rose “The Fairy” – a minature rose that has many cousins.  I prefer this “first” myself.

From HGTV.com’s list of carefree roses by Mary C. Weaver:

‘The Fairy’: With a name like that, you might think ‘The Fairy’ delicate. Don’t let this polyantha’s diminutive, cupped double pink blooms fool you: this plant is nearly indestructible. Introduced in 1932 by Ann Bentall of England, one of the few female hybridizers in the rose world, ‘The Fairy’ begins blooming somewhat late in the season but keeps on going into fall. Clusters of blooms form along the entire length of the shrub’s prickly canes. The foliage is tiny, medium-green, glossy and disease-resistant. If you live in a warm climate, make sure ‘The Fairy’ gets some afternoon shade–the soft-pink flowers will fade in hot sun. Hardy to Zone 4. A low and spreading shrub 2 to 3 feet in height and 3 to 4 feet in width.

In the end, ‘The Fairy’ Rose / Rosa ‘ The Fairy’ is a great miniature, and suprisingly hardy. I recommend it heartily.

[simage=187,288,n,center,][simage=186,288,n,center,][simage=184,288,n,center,][simage=188,288,n,center,][simage=191,288,n,center,]

View at Picasa 26-Jun-2010 13:54, NIKON CORPORATION NIKON D60, 8.0, 200.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 100

View at Picasa 26-Jun-2010 13:54, NIKON CORPORATION NIKON D60, 8.0, 135.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 100

View at Picasa 26-Jun-2010 13:53, NIKON CORPORATION NIKON D60, 8.0, 200.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 100

View at Picasa 26-Jun-2010 13:54, NIKON CORPORATION NIKON D60, 8.0, 200.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 110

View at Picasa 26-Jun-2010 13:54, NIKON CORPORATION NIKON D60, 8.0, 86.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 140

Hydrangea Paniculata “Grandiflora” Planted: Aug 2008.

1. Year 1 – Just Bought, awaiting their final abode.

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1. Year 2 -June 2009

The plants had been in for about a year, but I was ignoring them.  The marketing wing of “Proven Winners” was too strong and I almost wished these plain white PG’s would die.

[simage=20,288,n,center,][simage=22,288,n,center,][simage=21,288,n,center,][simage=14,288,n,center,]

1. Year 3 – June 2010

But Lo and Behold, these bad boys held on, and for a good run as well.  In their third year, they’ve withstood drought and neglect.  Not to mention they mesh together beautifully, making an excellent hedge specimen.  I am waiting for these to bloom later in the year.  (I Believe it’s fall).

[simage=63,320,n,center,]

In Front

1. Day Lilly – “Salieri“
2. Day Lilly – “Rocket City“
3. Day Lilyy – “Custard Candy“
4. Boxwood – “Green Velvet” – (Replacement Plant)
5. Dwarf Evergreen plant beside pine tree
6. 2x Varigated groundcover under pine trees
7. Heuchera – “BlackOut” (Replacement Plant)
8. 2x Iris – “Versicolor“

On the side – Backup Plants

1. Hydrangea – “Nikko Blue” (Backup Plant)
2. Hydrangea – “Invincibelle Spirit“

In Back

1. Rose of Sharon – White tips / Red center
2. 2x Hydrangea – “Let’s dance Moonlight“
3. 2x Hydrangea – “Incrediball“
4. Miniature Roses – Pink
5. Bearded Iris

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