After spending time working on my 2 Japanese Maple trees, and also reading up on pruning Japanese Maple Trees, I realized that there was a glut of serious entries on the subject of pruning these beauties.  Typical blog or articles on the topic typically say, “Let the Japanese maple just grow, and weed out the excessive growth”.  That really does not suffice on pruning this beauty, Unless you really want a simple oval shaped tree.

The Japanese Maple has some unique characteristics, which can make the tree really stand out as a specimen plant, if pruned properly.  My way of thinking was, where better to learn about pruning the Japanese Maple trees, then the Japanese?

With that in mind, I read up on Japanese Niwaki principles, specific to the Maple.  These are my pruning rules for the Acer palmatum, heavily influenced by the book: “Niwaki: Pruning, Training and Shaping Trees the Japanese Way” by Jake Hobson.  But the rules have been adjusted for better understanding, and Western Gardening practices.  But also, updated based on my own limited knowledge of pruning my own trees.

Pruning Rules

Glossary of Pruning Terms

1. Horizontal Branch – A branch growing horizontally, or even slightly upwards (to 45 degree).
2. Vertical Branch – A branch growing 45-90 degrees upwards.
3. Epicorm Growth – This is growth stemming from the center of the tree.  It is also called a branching sucker.  These are branches that are attached to the central root system.  They grow very fast, and move straight up.  If left alone, they can take over the tree, but they are unslightly, and off times, discolored.

General Structural Pruning Rules:

1. Prune for a reason.  Don’t cut any branch, unless there is a reason!
2. Prune for beauty / aesthetics – Make the tree fall into the shape you desire.
   1. Don’t allow the tree to decide what shape it will take, you can control the end result, so use that power for a healthier tree.
   2. It is always to the benefit of everyone, to allow the tree to take the shape it prefers.  So prune with that in mind, but do not allow this rule to stop you from cutting where you need to.
   3. There is a difference between pruning for Health (Arborist), and pruning for beauty.  Sometimes both methods have the same goal in mind.
3. Prune for size: Pruning can be used to control tree size.  A well pruned tree, over the years, can slow growth to 1/2 of original growth speed.Very useful in small gardens.
4. Prune for health: Moderate pruning, utilizing basic pruning principles, will always help the tree.

Pruning the Japanese Maple

Trunk Pruning

1. Prune out epicorm growth – They will take over the plant, and can be unsightly.  These branches can be identified by their discoloration, fast growth, and straight vertical growth.
2. Prune out all vertical growth
   1. Identify your trunks (ie – which vertical branches / trunks you wish to use as the foundational trunks for your tree).  For a Japanese Maple 4-5 is ussually enough for a nice branching tree.
   2. Remove all other vertical branches / trunks.
   3. If you don’t wish to prune a vertical branch for various reasons, then understand that this branch will eventually become a major tree trunk.

Primary Branch Training

The focus here is pruning branches that have grown off the main trunk and secondary trunks.  Don’t worry yet about what is happening on the branches.  We’re only looking at the trunk still.

1. The Japanese Maple has a branching habit, but if you want more branches, then “Top” the tree at a 2 bud node (See diagram below).
   1. The tree will then grow a 2 branch head
2. Prune symmetrical branches – The Japanese Maple Tree has a symmetrical branching structure, where 2 buds will grow, directly opposite of each other.
   1. To create a more natural look, prune out one branch/bud from a pair of symmetrical branches.
      1. If you prune out a left branch, then on the next Symmetrical branch, prune out the right branch.  This allows growth to be even on both sides of the trunk.
3. Prune vertical branches – Remove all vertical branches stemming from the trunk.
   1. The Japanese Maple Tree has a habit of producing a horizontal branch, then a vertical branch next.  Keep this in mind when hunting for vertical growth.
      1. Buds all look like they are vertical growth.  So don’t touch buds until after they have grown a little and exposed their growth tendency.
   2. High up on the tree, there will be no Horizontal branches.  This is a misnomer, as 45 degree angled branches, will eventually bend over (with leaf weight) into a horizontal branch.  So the rule of thumb is, lower on the tree, Horizontal branches are growing horizontally.  Higher on the tree, Horizontal branches are growing about 45 degrees upwards.
   3. There may be places, where you can’t remove vertical branches (Or don’t want to).  In those cases, prune the vertical branch down to the lowest acceptable horizontal branch or bud.  The point here is, you are stopping vertical growth, and leaving a horizontal branch, ensuring future growth is moving horizontal only.
   4. When done properly, you will end up with a Japanese Maple Tree that has strong vertical lines in the trunck and secondary trunks, and all branches wil be moving horizontally.  There will be no or few crossed branches stemming from the cross meeting of a vertical branch and the branch above it.  This promotes health via: More air and light inside the tree structure.

Individual Branch Training

Now, Moving from the trunks, work on each branch individually.  Start from the bottom of the tree, and work on each branch individually as you move up.

1. On each branch, remove any vertical leaf or branch.
2. Remove opposing symmetrical branches.  Ensure that as you do this, the branch has even growth.  If you have 5 branches pointing left, you try for 5 pointing to the right (or at least 3-4 pointing to the right).
   1. The only place this is not the case, is symmetrical up/down branches.  In this case, you remove all vertical (upward branches), and leave the down facing branches.
3. Now step back and look at each individual main branch from several feet away.  Look straight on at the branches, then look at the same branch from the side.
   1. Straight on, the branch should be cascading gently downward.  There should not be any vertical protrusions breaking the wave.
      1. If there are, it means you missed vertical growth, and you should prune this vertical growth out.
   2. Same applies from the side-view.  There should be no breaks in the smooth cascade.
   3. A good simile for the branch, is your hand resting on a broom.  All fingers are loosely pointing out horizontally, and cascade downwards near the finger tips.  There are no fingers pointing up or at an angle.  Your Japanese Maple Tree branches should be the same.

End Result

When trained in this way, you will end up with a unique Japanese Maple Tree, which does not look like a big round Maple Tree when mature.  It will be a tree with character: Selective branches, that wind gracefully downward.  There will be portions of trunk exposed due to missing branches, further enhancing it’s beauty.

Compare this to an unpruned Japanese Maple Tree (Acer Palamtum) or a minimally pruned Japanese Maple Tree   At full maturity, it is large, circular, with criss crossed branches.  It’s big and unwieldy, great for bird nests, but not a true specimen tree in your Garden.

“The technique of niwaki is more about what to do with a tree than the tree itself. While Western gardeners enjoy experimenting with a wide range of different plants, Japanese gardeners experiment through training and shaping a relatively limited set of plants.”

My focus on Niwaki stems from my recognition of the total failure of Western gardening principles in actually pruning a tree to look stunning.  The Western approach (and it is very beautiful in its own straight forward fashion) relies simply on understanding what the Plant wants to do, and then helping it along in this approach.

But the Japanese method seems to be more about creating graceful lines and curves with Trees.  The effect can be stunning in it’s own right.  I’m not one to really enjoy stunting a tree (aka Bonsai), but I have a real belief that heavy pruning and guiding branches will lead to beautiful, sparesly branched trees.

Unfortunatly, there doesn’t seem to be much out there on Niwaki.  THe only book worth mentioning on Amazon is the following:

Niwaki - Japanese Pruning - By Jake Hobson

Niwaki: Pruning, Training and Shaping Trees the Japanese Way

You can also find this book on Google Books here:

GOOGLE Books – online version of Book Niwaki – Pruning, Training, and shaping Trees

Embedded Version:

If anyone finds other books on Niwaki – Japanese Gardening and Pruning, please comment below.

Orange Accent Home Accessories Cushion

Accent Cushion Orange

Arden Doulton Home Accessories Cushion

Arden Doulton Cushion

Outdoor Patio  Deep Seating Home Accessories Cushion

Outdoor Patio Cushion

Wicker Seat Home Accessories Cushion

Wicker Seat Cushion

Algoma Cushion

Algoma Cushions for Hanging Chairs

Sturdy Knee Home Accessories Cushion

I’m not sure when I’ll finally go pick up one of these, but I may even check out some local garage sales.  Sometimes you can find some decent used Home Accessories Cushions.

1. What is the stones weight?
2. How will the stones transport?
3. moving stones?
4. stones in pounds
5. heavy stones
6. lifting guidelines
7. decorative stones
8. garden stones

A great way to make your garden bloom!

Placeholder on Gardening in the north!

gardens. north

Tree

“A tree can outgrow its original purpose very quickly or grow into its intended purpose very slowly. Understanding this concept is the key to proper tree planting in your yard.”

-Steve Nix (About.com)

Islamic Gardens are interesting because unlike Western gardens, they are actually based on the profane, and include much symbology related to the Quran, and the idea of Paradise.

The Quran is quite detailed in its description of Paradise, and these references are used and implemented symbolically in the Garden.

Four Rivers in Paradise: Water, Honey, Milk and Wine

(Here is) a Parable of the Garden which the righteous are promised:
in it are rivers of water incorruptible;
rivers of milk of which the taste never changes;
rivers of wine, a joy to those who drink;
and rivers of honey pure and clear.
In it there are for them all kinds of fruits; and Grace from their Lord.
Quran(47:15)

This concept is used in Islamic Gardens by creating 2 water streams that interest at Right angles, creating 4 distinct areas in a square.  Each of the “streams” symbolizing one of the rivers of paradise above.  This concept is further developed in the Islamic Garden with the Fountain, which exists in the center of the water crossing.

In fact, the fountain always exists in the Islamic Garden, even if the water is created symbolically with a path or walkway.

The Fountain

Verily, We have granted you (O Muhammad (SAW)) Al-Kauthar;
Therefore turn in prayer to your Lord and sacrifice Quran
Quran (108:1)

And this verse has been explained in extensive Hadith as a Fountain and as a River.  Contrary to European Fountains, traditionally Islamic Gardens had low murmuring water fountains.  And in some respects, even this can be considered wasteful.  For it is an Islamic principle to never waste water, even if standing beside a flowing River.

The Plants

But for him who feareth the standing before his Lord there are two gardens.
Quran(55:46)

In them will be Fruits, and dates and pomegranates:
Quran(55:68)

Specfically, I’ve found 2 reference to plants that will be in Paradise.  The Dates and the Pomegranates.  Some have stated the Olive and Fig are also mentioned as in paradise. Allahu Alim.  The only verse in the Quran regarding the Fig is:

By the figs and the olives. By Mount of Sinai. And this city of security (Makkah).
Quran(95:1-3).

Bibliography

1. http://www.reep.org/resources/islamic-gardens/

2. Gardens of Delight: Islamic Gardens By Christa G.